Lord Howe Island.... Dramatic!! PART THREE - THE FINAL

We slowly made our way through the golf course where they were hosting a week long tournament and there were even three Germans there! After this we were even slower going past the exclusive Capella Lodge to see if we could see anything but it really was the allure of the south end that had us captured.
Again we found the well placed bike stand and noticed how muggy it was as we walked along the track filled with palms to see Little Island. Like most other spots there was no sign of others but eerily two other bikes sat at the stand and we weren't sure where they were?? This was one spot we kept repeating our well worn but truthful description of Lord Howe Island... dramatic!

 

Little Island was indeed just that... a little island but also such another tranquil spot. Hard to explain but it was so peaceful there and when you laid back and looked up at Mt Gower you can only admire and wonder how some people can think about climbing up this piece of nature, mankind is a mysterious beast!

As always the clouds were lingering around the two mountains so we didn't really feel like getting wet and yes we still had more on the south end to explore so again reluctantly we made our way back through the palms to a spot called Lovers Bay. From here we could look back towards Lagoon Beach and the northern end of Lord Howe Island and it was another spot you could sit and reflect... even when we disturbed the crabs living there!

Crab at Lover's Bay

It is a small island but the fact you can ride and walk everywhere makes it so easy to get around but also naturally tire you out away from the day to day grind of sitting in front of a computer. At the end of another brilliant day on this island we relaxed in the evening sitting back and dreaming of our joyful few days in this truly special place.

As we lay our head on the pillows we could hear the rain coming down but with just one last full day available to us nothing was going to dampen our spirits. In fact when we awoke and at breakfast the rest of the holidayers seemed to be grumbling we both sat there with grins. Today we had heard the famous "Island Trader" was arriving after three long weeks since the last supplies were delivered so regardless of the inclement weather we made our way down to watch the community get together to help each other out.

As you would expect the weather cleared as it does so quickly so we watched in amazement as the Captain navigated the low tides to make his way through the coral without incident to dock at the jetty.

Island Trader docks

It took them a while to tie up the ship and you could see from all the vehicles waiting that as this one took three weeks before it arrived as opposed to the normal two it was very welcome. The sun was out so after lunch there was no other decision but to return to Ned's Beach to go see those awesome fish one more time on our final afternoon. It was a popular destination but still so stress free as everyone allowed each other their own space to enjoy this idyllic spot. We didn't really need to even go and buy any fish food as there were many people willing to feed them whilst we enjoyed the scene!

Fish at Ned's Beach

Living the life at Ned's Beach

During our time on the Island we loved riding through "Town" as this was they way to Ned's Beach, we found the small little buildings so cute and really enjoyed the Anchorage for a nice coffee on a few occasions. As it is quoted in most of the brochures we read before arriving it really is a small country town which is located in the Pacific!

Break time on the Island

Local Post Office

Our last night and we were treated to some sunset canapes at the boatshed before we enjoying our last meal. Ironically the heavens opened up again and we thought that would hamper any plans for our last morning but we had put on our agenda a trip to the museum so really we thought nothing much of it. Rising the next morning and we noted the rain was a bit more set in than the previous morning so after we dropped off our bikes we wandered along to the museum which had some really interesting exhibits and lots of history to check on. They were even showing a documentary about the Island shot by a German TV crew so we sat back and enjoyed that.

The rain was still coming down so when we arrived we thought it a bit of a joke that there was a chance our plane would be cancelled, normally a good predicament but as the plane in the morning had arrived our room was gone!

Still after a bit of a delay we made our way to the airport and enjoyed the peculiarities of this Island when they even weighed you as well before being able to board... too much dining may come back to haunt us but we all sighed a collective relief as our plane arrived.

Boarding Pass..Island Style!

Our plane arrives... good or bad?

So with mixed emotions we boarded our flight to head back to Sydney but with us both promising ourselves a certain return trip. Just the feel and relaxed nature of the island lured us both in and it appealed to us on so many levels.It is a very well kept secret and even to us it remained that way for quite some time, a shame but maybe we weren't ready to fully enjoy it until now.

To have no mobiles, limited access to the mainland, slow speed limit and have everyone wave to each other was just so refreshing in this day and age of hustle and bustle being so taken for granted as a way of life.

Lord Howe Island we thank you for an amazing time and we promise to come back again... soon!!

Lord Howe Island....Dramatic!! PART TWO

Once we reached the peak of Malabar Hill we took a well deserved break and noticed a "short" hike of 500 metres to Kim's Lookout which we though would be nice to do later. It only really took us just over twenty minutes to get up the hill but now we had to get down an equally steep descent to North Bay. This trek seemed a bit more up to date and we passed another trekker who informed us he was in training to do Mt Gower and was on the Island for two weeks... lucky bugger.
North Bay was a worthwhile destination by the time we arrived and we could already see the amount of bird life evident on Mt Eliza. We took in our surrounds and made a detour to Old Gulch which was something again - adding drama to this unique Island!

Old Gulch

The view from North Bay

Well we had made it but time had got the better of us in regards to climbing Mt Eliza with our Turtle tour upon us yet we had another hike back up again and we managed to share a laugh at the hiker going past us wearing thongs. Time for another breather and we saw the reminder for Kim's Lookout and we couldn't not go and have a look as we were up this far already. The beginning of this hike started flat but once we started climbing again we knew we may get a view but I think we were both surprised at just how good. The only thing missing was some safety barriers but the location made up for it! :)

Two weary travellers!

Lord Howe Island...Dramatic!!

After collecting our breath and with our impending Turtle Tour not far we begrudgingly made our way back down Malabar Hill. Still there was time at the base where we could sit overlooking Old Settlement Beach devouring our Lunch Pack from Pinetrees, we were two hungry trekkers! The weather looked ominous so when we reached the tour it was decided against snorkeling and with no crime on the island it was no dramas to leave our boots in our baskets on the bikes!
It was a pretty low tide again but looking through the glass boat bottom and you felt incredibly close and after watching the other group members emerge from the water looking blue and shivering we were happy with our decision to admire the coral dry. Our guide really was informative and we found "small" turtles which we thought huge and a very scary stingray. The coral alone was amazing and this is new regrowing due to the flying boats no longer coming since the 1970's.

Dry Snorkeler!

View from Turtle Boat Tour

Luckliy we made it back to shore as the tide was receding rapidly and after all that fresh air and activity both of us were looking forward to our evening meal. Even more so as I (Jason) had.... fish!! The Barramundi was great and tender and funnily.... not fishy! As with every other meal we had it couldn't be faulted and that really made the trip so much more relaxing.
Friday was here already but we still had a lot more we wanted to see so in the morning it was onward to Blinky Beach for a morning swim. A short ride and this beach is opposite the small airstrip and home again to some unique bird life. The conditions were a bit too much for swimming but that mattered little as we wandered along this beach capturing our surrounds.

After abandoning a swim at Blinky Beach we knew a small strip literally at the end of the airstrip with some beach which we thought might suit our needs a bit better. The tide was high and we really only got knee high but being able to sit in this quiet spot all by ourselves was more than enough to please us. Being on holidays our hunger knew it must be another meal time and with the title "Friday Fry Up" it sounded ominous. As thought we discovered a buffet salad bar with.... more fish! This time the famous and delicious local Kingfish was on the menu and again Jason enjoyed but did have a lot of chips to balance it!
When we arrived on Tuesday we noticed some photographers waiting for the plane and the opportunity for us to be this close was one we couldn't ignore. Hurriedly we jumped again on our invaluable bikes and set up awaiting the plane to arrive. Sadly today it came in from a different angle and you think you would have heard it but it was quiet.... still it was cool to see them pull up so quick!

The airport is on the south end of the Island and the "Dramatic" Mt Gower and Mt Lidgbird were still inviting us to head on down there to walk to a place called Little Island which apparently was at the base so it was onward to more exploring.

Lord Howe Island.... Dramatic! PART ONE!!

For quite a while a very good friend (Paul who has now been upgraded to great friend!!) of ours had been telling us how good this little island off the NSW Mid North Coast was... he had been ten times!

After a bit of research and discovering that Lord Howe Island had been World Heritage Listed since 1982, had a maximum of 400 tourists at any given time, population of 350, no mobile phone coverage and was only 11 kilometres long and 2 kilometres wide this sounded like something we HAD to explore.
Another gladly received tip was of a nice old friendly lodge called Pinetrees which would include all food and was the only place with beachfront access - it sounded ideal. A few days spent in Sydney visiting family and friends and we boarded a 36 seater plane to make the two hour trip north to Lord Howe.
It was a pleasant shock when we arrived to see the one kilometre long air strip but the ease of how we touched down and the sunny skies that awaited us and our first glimpse of the island including the very small airport (small old house) gave us no stress.... a sign of the next five days where you left your troubles back on the mainland - as the locals referred to Australia. :)

Qantaslink plane arriving

Lord Howe International Airport

Walking off the plane and you could see the small group of friendly locals awaiting their new guests and when we met Rachael one of the four owners of Pinetrees she instantly made us feel welcome. Even on the way to the lodge we got a tour of the south part of the island (in case we didn't go that far :)) and we saw close up the imposing Mt Gower and Mt Lidgbird and knew we would for sure come back to get up close and personal.... but no way were we climbing Mt Gower! Rachael gave us an idea of the island's attractions and some info regarding how you had to be a local to buy there and had to be employed. Also as we we drove back as it was a hot afternoon Rachael picked up some golfers and gave them a lift - island hospitality at it's finest.

Once we made it to our lodge we enjoyed a complimentary drink.We were directed to an info board on all the things we could do and this also gave us weather conditions as we soon learnt on this island things changed quickly! First thing was to get into some shorts and cross the road to the beach! On this island no rooms are locked as they don't have any crime so we didn't need to worry about keys. Before reaching the beach we ventured past the boatshed with it's honesty bar.... again a lot of trust put in but you felt already comfortable and safe.

The Boatshed looking towards Mt Gower

Lagoon Beach

Part of the attraction of our accommodation was the fact all the meals were catered for and already it was time for afternoon tea at the lodge. This is very helpful as the island only receives a ship every two weeks from Port Macquarie and not having the thought of what and where shall we eat was certainly another reason we enjoyed it.
The tip from the staff was that due to the weather being so sunny and clear to head down back to the Boatshed and get ready for the sunset. Looking towards Blackburn island from Lagoon Beach we were indeed quite grateful for the tip and sat and enjoyed what was a superb sunset.

Sunset over Blackburn Island

Enjoying the Serenity

Our first evening dining experience followed from the sunset viewing and this was mouthwatering with a four course meal available. We also made friends with two lovely ladies next to our table who relayed how on the Saturday they flew in from Port Macquarie but after attempting it four times had to turn around and go back due to inclement weather. We joked about it and laughed that it wouldn't be so bad to be stuck on the island and little did we know how prophetic our words would be when we would depart.
Being so remote made the evening sky stars all so more bright and we sat and looked up at the deserted boatshed after a beautiful dinner.
The next morning and we thought the alarm hadn't gone off as it looked like the sun was up already but we didn't know that the sun rises a little after 5am on the Island..... a pleasant surprise. Breakfast wasn't till 8am but we were on island time and after enjoying the continental buffet and then being able to choose a cooked option we were raring to go.
The staff visit you at your table during breakfast to see what you have planned and we thought we would do some exploring and go to Ned's Beach, in this case they organise to bring lunch to you to cook on a BBQ (more details later).
Of course there is only one place to hire a bike on the Island so after a short walk we were sorted with our transport. The speed limit is only 25km/h and there are hardly any cars apart from the locals but they do make sure you wear your helmets!
Just a short ride through "town" and you go down Ned's Beach Road to arrive at Ned's Beach. We had heard the fish come up to you to be fed so we dipped our toes in to see if this was true and after a little while we did indeed come across these mysterious fish who were more than willing to come up to you!
As promised Rachael arrived with the promised BBQ delivery in a large esky loaded with sausages, rissoles, chops, fish, cheese, salad, sauces, fruit and of course even the matches! All we had to do was leave it in the shed and they would pick it up later, this was indeed the life!

BBQ time at Ned's Beach

Time to tuck in!

With a promise to return before we left we jumped back onto our bikes and spotted a local cemetery we went and had a look at. Sometimes there are some interesting stories in those old gravestones and this was of course evident on Lord Howe Island. After we got back to Pinetrees we dropped off some of our stuff and headed to the Turtle Tour we had booked for 3pm.
Unfortunately the tour had been cancelled due to the low tide and we had to wait till the next day. The honesty of the tour operator was okay for us as we would rather be delayed than go when it may not of been ideal conditions. Still we knew there was lots more to do so after negotiating a large hill up to Andersons Rd and leaving our bikes in one of the many bikestands on the island we went towards Middle Beach.
Luckily a decision had been made to change into our hiking boots and the rain jackets in the backpack were used as we made our way down the incline to Middle Beach to see what a low tide can provide... dry snorkelling!

Middle Beach at Low Tide

Two happy explorers at Middle Beach

 So we spent a wonderful afternoon tip toeing around the coral which was exposed enough for us to look at closely without getting wet (well not from below - just a slight drizzle) and the beach was again almost deserted.A photography group from Pinetrees were just leaving as we arrived and left probably because of the rain but it really didn't bother us at all.

After a while we knew it was time to go back but we knew another exciting four course dinner was awaiting us. It was so quiet on the Island and we truly felt like we were on a holiday!
Of course the meal didn't disappoint and over dinner we discussed with the other holidayers and staff the prospect of climbing to Mt Eliza the next day before our Turtle Tour at 1pm. Everyone was smiling and nodding in agreement we could do that but in hindsight we should have realised that everyone was being overly agreeable.

Again during breakfast we mentioned our plan to walk up Mt Eliza on the northern end and no-one really said it wasn't achievable. In fact it was relayed to us that it was nesting season so you could only go half way up so should be no dramas.We grabbed our Lunch Packs and took our bikes to Old Settlement Beach and began our trek by going past a paddock with some cattle before we got to the base of the first ascent which was Malabar Hill with an ascent of 210 metres but a lot of old stones as steps. It was a particularly muggy day but we were determined to get up there!

 

Nice long treks!

Smiling but very sweaty!