Six days and nights we had set out to explore in halves the West end and then the East end of this vast island and we started our adventure nice and early on a Sunday morning. Without fail Jason managed to bump his head on the mantle and give himself a nice cut on his head but not enough to delay the trip to Cape Jervis about 100 kilometres from home to catch the ferry to KI. It was a weird morning as we drove closer to encounter fog in the surrounding hills near Cape Jervis but slowly we arrived at the terminal nice and too early so we grabbed a coffee.
To our confusion upon receiving our coffee someone from the ferry grabbed us and due having a smaller car we managed to get onto to the earlier ferry but it was with gratitude Jason accepted the help of a staff member to back up the car into the limited space left, the ferry can hold up to 50 cars and there are 8 services a day.
So in slightly dark but dry conditions we started the 45 minute ride off the mainland to our home for the next six days. Being last on meant we were first off so after arriving in Penneshaw we headed to the information centre to grab an island pass and find out some local info. We armed ourselves with some brochures and with our passes we started to cross the Island towards the accommodation for the first three nights on the western end. We passed Prospect Hill and couldn't help but take the challenge to walk up the hill to survey the surrounds. As we made our way to the top there were signs detailing wildlife marks in the sand and animals they belong to, the one of most note was the Tiger Snake.
See Wikipedia "While antivenom is effective, mortality rate for this species is around 60% if not treated."
The view at the top was well worth it but then we continued on towards the western side and had some lunch at a Gallery before we finally arrived.
Our log cabin "Sunset Lodge" at the caravan park was immaculate and really surpassed our expectations so we busily unloaded our fully loaded small car before we took advantage of the sun coming out and headed to Flinders Chase National Park which is home to the Remarkable Rocks and Admiral's Arch.
This was our first chance to use our pass as we visited the information centre at the park and then made the 16 kilometres drive to these adjoining attractions. As we drove the road towards the Remarkable Rocks there was an ideal lookout that showed this truly exceptional rock formation from a distance. After we made the mandatory stop there we made our way to them where it was of course crowded but more than a few photos were taken! We dragged ourselves away to go and visit Admiral's Arch and stopped at Cape Du Couedic Lighthouse and made the short walk unlike many of the other sightseers to discover a mass of New Zealand Fur Seals draped all over the coast line.
The actual Admiral's Arch is a great spot but the fact it is populated by so many New Zealand Fur Seals is an added bonus and we watched for a long time these curious creatures and made a promise to come back before we left to go to the east end.
We enjoyed our first night on the island by having a glass of champagne on our cabin porch after going for a twilight walk near a close by lagoon getting up close and personal with some Tamar Wallabies. Both of us enjoyed sitting and relaxing on the porch on this first night.
Monday morning and we again again took advantage of our location and sat and had breakfast quietly and slowly whilst savouring our immediate environment. Finally we headed to nearby Hansons Bay which was our first encounter of KI's unmade roads but the view was well worth it! We passed by the very exclusive Eco lodge which sadly is gated so no chance of paying a visit!
This magnificent spot was deserted upon arrival but the small car behind us arrived and only took enough time for some brief photos before they departed as quickly as they arrived. We made the most of this spot and slowly strolled along the beach soaking up how wonderful and remote we felt.
Begrudgingly the trek back was taken to our accommodation to grab some lunch and after consulting our KI map it was decided we would visit Cape Borda Lighthouse for one of their tours... we thought we had plenty of time!!
Turning right past the entrance to the Flinders Chase National Park the smooth road directed us towards the turnoff to Cape Borda and after our experience in the morning our belief was that the unmade road said twenty eight kilometres to our destination but surely that couldn't be as bad as Hanson Bay... it was far worse. Later after consulting with a local we came across the term "corrugated" road which typified this long slow road which the further we got the less chance of finalising our trip!
At the end we can't really say how far we got before we turned around but sufficient to say we saw long winding roads still ahead and with a heavy heart we headed back slowly but safely firmly with an idea to return with a bigger vehicle. Still as we made our way back we spotted a pretty big goanna crossing this dirt unmade road and further along the familiar sight of roadkill was being looked at by a huge bird of prey who was not happy to be disturbed.
Back to Flinders Chase National Park and off to a Platypus Lagoon located near the visitor centre, we waited quietly and patiently but left this area also empty handed but still upon walking back we came across some Tamar Wallabies. Back to our lodge for the evening and within our campground was an idyllic lagoon we took a twilight walk through and again came in close contact with some wildlife including one angry looking Kangaroo. Nearby our lodge there was a Koala mum and baby sleeping snugly and as we sat in the evening on our deck another mother this time a possum visited with her baby as we obviously had their spot! Also that evening we awoke to a strange noise in our bedroom to discover somehow a small bat had made it's way in!!
Tuesday or as the Germans call it Dienstag (I think named after me!) arrived and we wanted to head to the south coast of KI towards Seal Bay but as we got closer we passed Raptor Domain and they were due for their daily show so there was no argument about making a stop there. The show was great and Jason got up close and personal with a Kookaburra and we had a nurse each of a Barn Owl. The people running this place were very passionate and this showed during the show with the way the keeper spoke.
Soon we headed to Seal Bay as we had included in our passes a guided tour which we were so lucky to get on as there was only four of us. Our guide Peter was extremely knowledgeable as we pestered him with questions and got up really close and personal with the sea lions. There was a mixture of them sleeping and some boisterous behaviour and you truly could have stayed hours watching them. After our tour we went to a boardwalk to view and as it was windy people seemed to come and go frequently as we stood and watched in awe.
It was there we witnessed a sad scene of a pup thinking it's mother was returning from three days at sea gathering food but alas it was a case of mistaken identity. We could have stayed for hours but made a promise to return so we left to go and enjoy Jason's birthday present from Anja... quad biking!
Along the way we stopped at another beautiful place called Vivonne Bay. Again this was deserted to our pleasure as we slowly strolled barefoot along the shore however we soon enough changed into some jeans to head to the scene of our twilight quad biking.
Fortunately the overcast weather cleared in time for our arrival at the Kangaroo Island Outdoor Action centre and after being joined by three backpackers we received some training before we hit the trail.
At first we were both hesitant as we drove off through the curvy and bumpy terrain but once we hit the flat open spaces it was fair to say both of us loved it!! Both of us were at the back of the pack but we managed to keep up as you sometimes forgot how great the scenery was and caught the eye of the bemused kangaroos as we scooted over a few properties. Even we found a thrill as we descended up a hill to view from the peak the island from this unique perspective.
Our time was soon over and it was about thirty two kilometres back to our caravan park but we did not pass one vehicle!
PETROL ADVICE ON THE ISLAND:
It is noted throughout all brochures that purchasing petrol is something that depending on where you are on the island. All the time we were there we always referred to our fuel gauge and some of the roads we took were very remote! However it isn't cheap as you can imagine but obviously with the island so large a necessity. Our first chance to fill up the car came at the lodge we didn't stay at and after numerous attempts to fill up it was discovered that they had gone through four hundred litres in four days! On our first successful attempt we did our usual mode of thinking of a dollar amount and when we actually had someone pump the petrol it was to our amusement how quick it went!
Suffice to say we spent some money into the local economy when it came to petrol but we are blessed with a small car!
Wednesday morning and it was time to leave the Western End but we took advantage of our pass and went back nice and early and visited the Remarkables and Admiral's Arch again with the sun shining down and far less crowds! The two of us just sat and watched the fur seals without anyone else for what seemed like an eternity as we laughed at the younger ones playing whilst the rest slept.
There was also no way we were going to drive pass Seal Bay without also taking another tour, although this one was much more crowded it still was great to view the Sea Lions for another time so close.
We were staying the last three nights at Penneshaw where the ferry lands and as we made our way there we came across a Lavender Farm with a cafe.
It was mid afternoon but the owner welcomed us with open arms but made sure he let us know the kitchen would be closing soon so we ordered some lavender scones and coffee. Out on the balcony the owner rattled off with a lot of enthusiasm all the varieties they add and encouraged us to go for a walk.
Upon sitting down to savour the cream and jam with the scones the owner came and sat down and had a chat, he revealed his reasons for moving from Victoria in great detail and showed genuine interest in our story. He then seemed to mentioned every attraction and nice spot on the eastern end and we couldn't get over how friendly he was! Soon enough we jumped back into the car and arrived at our so called four star accommodation but the pub just up the road was going to be our first port of call.
It was obvious who the locals where and who wasn't but the view was priceless as we enjoyed our schnitzels washed down with a beer before walking off our meal nearby. The buses were frantically going past to the Ferry for the tourists who obviously thought just a day was enough on KI... definitely not!
Next morning and it was down to the bistro to have the supplied Continental breakfast which was very simple but at least Jason didn't have to do the dishes! The main town on KI is Kingscote so we knew we had to have a visit there and also at the gallery we visited on Sunday it mentioned a gallery we could buy some jewellery at. Kingscote is fairly small and after we managed to walk up and down the main street we decided to ask about the gallery but alas had no luck. Funnily in one gallery we came across our guide from our first visit to Seal Bay, it seems that the locals have no dramas to work two jobs but we were very jealous.
The bakery at Kingscote was the highlight but we also visited Reeve's Point which is the place of first settlement in South Australia so a key historic site. During Thursday we stopped in a few spots, especially after some advice from our eager Lavender Farm owner. Some Pelicans in American River weren't too happy we didn't have food and Pennington Bay looked great but the day was extremely windy.
Emu Bay however was a great little spot to go for a nice long walk and even though it was March we both were rugged up and Anja had a beanie on. Still to our amazement we saw some people set up on the beach using their vehicle as a wind break as they sat in t-shirt and shorts reading and letting the world go by.
Part of our accommodation package included a Penguin tour that night (however it became obvious there that EVERYONE had a voucher) so at 8.30pm we met out local guide with our large group. After getting some interesting background info of how comfortable the penguins were living on the island a short walk took us to some man made burrows. As is always the case with animals we made some brief sightings but it was also funny the people in the group given torches having no idea where to point them!
Friday and sadly our last full day on the Island and after consulting with the same Information Centre staff member we met on Sunday she assured us our smaller car would be able to get to Cape Willoughby (again on the pass). Also it was recommended to visit Chapman River Cellar Door for lunch as they would be open. Fortunately this drive was so much easier and we even had time to look at Antechamber bay on the way there. As we approached we could see also the Cellar Door was off the beaten track so we made a promise to go back for lunch.
Driving down the last bit before we arrived at Cape Willoughby and it was such a wonderful sight. There were some old houses there and one contained all the info of the history of this old lighthouse which kept watch over the notorious Backstairs Passage which had claimed it's fair share of ships in it's time.
We had a tour and scaled the heights of the lighthouse which was cool and when we explored the grounds we came across a very big kangaroo just laying back!
Upon turning off to the Cellar Door we saw a plane parked which we thought odd and then later found out two men had flown from Murray Bridge just for lunch! It was a quaint little shed and we were greeted by a little dog Jason fell in love with. They had a platter we selected and also after some tasting a glass of wine was selected. The wind was chilly but we were determined to sit outside and savour our surrounds but even the dog went inside!
The platter was amazing and well worth the trip there, Bruce - the owner - also came out and chatted to these two crazy visitors braving the cold and we could have sat for hours. It was then we heard the plane take off and Bruce informed us it was common for many planes to be there at any time.
Back to Penneshaw and one last visit to the pub where we found out if you order a hamburger it will have steak and not mince!
Saturday and it was sadly time to leave and head for the ferry which was literally metres from our hotel and luck again had it we were one of the first vehicles on. It was a beautiful morning but when we were grabbing a coffee a staff member informed us that it had been rough coming over and sit at the back. Initially we sat near the front but it soon became obvious that she was right as we made the quick dash to the back. However it wasn't a proud moment when we BOTH fell very seasick.
Still the forty five minute journey was over as we reached Cape Jervis both relieved to be back on firm ground one more time. A nice drive back to Adelaide with a stop in Yankalilla at again another great country bakery before we reached home with the extra traffic evident from the Clipsal V8's in town.
Even more so as we sat in our backyard relaxing but we could still hear the engines very clearly and then the ensuing concert that night... we were back in civilisation!
Overall we both loved KI and that will certainly not be our only visit there. Both of us were so tired as there is so much to do on such a big island, there is still the North Coast to explore and for that we will need a bigger car. Touch wood and we may have a certain visitor (Jan???) next time join who we know would also love what KI provides. The west end was amazing and our favourite as it was so untouched and felt very remove.
Certainly would encourage people to visit but hang on........Psst it's a secret!!!!!
You can access more photos here: Kangaroo Island
